When buying a new men’s business shirt, or dress shirt, most people will make a selection based on size and colour. A portion of these will consider fit and maybe the brand, but only a smaller portion again will look at features such as the collar or cuffs. Choose a shirt with a collar design that suits you best and you’ll be in a select group of people, whose attention to detail sets them, and their sense of style, apart from the masses.
Know Your Face
Choosing a collar that suits you, in particular your face, follows a number of the same principles found throughout modern day fashion and design; such as the well known effects of horizontal and vertical stripes making you looking wider and taller respectively.
A round or wide face will benefit from collars that point down, whereas a long or narrow face can benefit from wider collars. This is not to say that you can only wear these particular styles. Absolutely not! In fact, certain forms of dress and certain styles of suits almost mandate an appropriate shirt and collar style to truly deliver on their specific look. However, for those men that want the details to matter, or, simply want all the pieces to come together, these guidelines will serve with class and distinction, even in casual settings.
Four Points To Remember
Firstly, a little anatomy lesson on the four elements to a shirt collar.
- The Band – refers to the fabric that encircles your neck.
- The Collar Points – a little self-explanatory, these are the pointy end of the collar that sit either side of your tie.
- Spread – refers to the distance between the two collar points.
- Point Length – refers to the distance between the collar band and the end of the collar point.
Now we can describe the collar options available using language we all understand.
The most traditional of all collar styles, and the standard offering of all shirt makers, the Classic Collar is particularly suited to round or larger faces, but basically looks good on anybody. Any tie knit will work with this collar but if you looking to make an impact, try the four-in-hand knot.
A more modern look is the Cutaway Collar with its wider spread and collar points that angle outwards. This style works well for men with slim or narrow faces, yet can still be worn by anyone wanting a more modern look. Full or half-windsor tie knots work particularly well. This shirt also works well without a tie.
As the name implies, this collar style is in between the Classic and the Cutaway collar. This style is commonly found on business casual shirts, since it is easy to dress up or down to suit various situations. Full windsor tie knots are mostly recommended when wearing this collar style.
These are the widest spread of all collar styles and have the collar tips pointing towards the shoulders. Men with narrow faces will find that this cut can help to balance out their proportions. With this collar style, a narrow tie looks best, with a small knot.
This collar is kept firmly in place by a button on each of the collar tips keeping it secured to the shirt. Easily worn with or without a tie, to dress up or down, it comes across as a little softer when worn with a blazer, but is equally stylish in business situations.
Specifically designed for formal dinner shirts, this collar should only be worn with a bow tie and tuxedo. In place of collar points, this collar sits flat and somewhat resembles wings, hence the name. Particularly suited to forma occasion such as weddings and black tie events.
With this little extra knowledge, you are now well positioned to shake things up and try something different. Chances are, you’ll look even better than you already do!
Let me know how you go with these new styles, or, do you already have a favourite?
Feel free to leave your comments below. Thanks.